07/05/14 - Kathmandu

yak yak yak

Namaste.

We have now been here in Thamel for 4 days. It feels longer. We are staying at the Shree Tibet family guesthouse for US$15/night. This place is owned by our friend Kris's mate - initially I thought he had sorted us a great rate, but it turns out there are plenty of cheaper places. One of the windows in our room is 2 inches from a very badly put together brick wall, which makes the view a little limited. The electricity here is only on about 50% of the time, and, it seems, so is the water (they call this ‘loadshedding’). Keeping 2 kids clean and healthy without water is a challenge. Hand sanitizer is our friend.

There is some amazing food to be eaten in Kathmandu. In fact the majority of our budget is being spent on food. Last night we had falafel and cocktails at a OR2K. We have had Yak steak at K-too (the picture of us we left here 7 years ago is no more), excellent mexican at the Northfield café and curry at Rosemaries Kitchen. Today we discovered good coffee at the Hotel Mandap. The food is cheap, although the bill is always more than you think it will be, as everywhere adds on 13% tax and a 10% service charge.

Thamel is a real assault on all the senses. Day one was a huge culture shock, to say the least. It took us a little time to remember that you just have to relax and go with it (last time we were here we came from India). In Bangkok and KL, the road from the airport was a wide highway adorned with statues, banners ‘long live the king etc’. In Kathmandu it’s a dirt road covered in rubble. It seems they are in the process of widening it. Will be nice when it’s finished, I’m sure. I think I said that 7 years ago though.

The thin potholed streets are shared by pedestrians, bikes, rickshaws and cars. It seems to be mandatory when driving to beep your horn at least every 5 seconds. If you stop in the street at least 3 people will come over and try to sell your something (tiger balm, metal homemade puzzles, rickshaw rides etc). Just walking around here is a unique experience.. There are the shady looking guys on corners whispering 'you smoke, marijuana, hash?', there are the dirty kids tugging on your arm 'food, milk Mister'.. there are the glass eyed dudes who start playing mini fiddles or playing with homemade wire puzzles for you to buy 'Mr, Mr, only 200. What's your price' (we now have 3 of these metal puzzles).. there are the fruit sellers who will make you fresh juice for $2, the bicycle rickshaw and taxi drivers who follow you until they are sure you are not interested.. the '100% pure' cashmere salesmen 'come in my friend, only looking'. The calls of 'Hello baby' (turns out they are addressing Eva on my shoulders, not me) All combined and you have a challenging place.

View from the window

The view from our hotel window is not very inspiring. We have taken to eating breakfast in our hotel. It's quiet and cheap. A simple breakfast of eggs and toast. Everyday the kids play with the napkins (bedding and capes for their toys) - our kids prefer a packet of napkins to any expensive toy. Today Kerry ordered cornflakes. After our order is taken the guy runs out of the hotel. 5 minutes later he comes back with a new box of cornflakes.

We have sorted out our Langtang trek with our friend Kris (he sorted all our previous trekking here 7 years ago and has become a good friend). We start tomorrow and trek up the Langtang valley for 20 days! We have built ourselves an escape route after 11 in case we find trekking with kids really is a hellish experience :) 20 days trekking for US$1300


After breakfast, at the Stupid park we did poo pop painting and then went to sort our trek out with Kris. Then we played on the computer pressing all the keys and shut the ipod down until it would never come on again. Then we kicked each others faces including the eyes and nose and tounge. Then we all licked my glasses.

I wish I was in a buttercup field, to count all the butterflies and bees. I wish I could be in a foxes den to see all the foxes I can see. Then, maybe I would fly up high into the sky and touch all the raindrops and rainbows. And maybe, maybe maybe when I get home it maybe a dream and I’ll be fast asleep. Or maybe awake. THE END. From Hannah. Ta Da!

Facts of the day:
When prickles come out of a cactus, they only come out in Australia. In big lumps.
If a pencil is sharpened, it will dance and make jokes.
Some pencils can walk.
Flowers are stupid.
Bracelets look like butterflies and brick walls, with timber.
If a deer waves it’s tail, it means it wants to do handstands and climb a tree

(Hannah and Eva helped me write todays entry)

Photos to come....

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